Five months ago, The Coney Company opened (3330 Broadview Rd., 216-563-1894, theconeycompany.com) up shop in a former Arby’s in Old Brooklyn. After a major freshening up of the interior, the locally owned shop began rolling out tasty Coney dogs, chili cheese fries, burgers and sandwiches.

The Coneys ($1.79) are done right, with a griddle-cooked natural casing dog tucked into a soft, steamed white bun and topped with bean-free Greek style chili, yellow mustard and diced onion. The snappy hot dogs are hefty and the chili is mild, savory and pleasant. There are a dozen different varieties of dog, including one topped with sauerkraut and Stadium Mustard ($1.79), one with taco meat, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes and onion ($2.69), and a Polish Boy ($3.99) with spicy polish sausage, coleslaw, fries and BBQ sauce.

Those same hand-cut shoestring fries come topped with chili and cheese sauce ($2.89) and served with a fork. Another version ($4.49) is overloaded with chili, ground beef, bacon, onions and cheese sauce.

The Coney Company also offers a pretty big assortment of burgers, sandwiches and even breakfast, but it’s the Coney that would bring me back.

This article appears in Oct 1-7, 2014.

For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.