Opening Soon: Green Kitchen in Clark-Fulton, a Vegan Eatery from Chef John Hagerty

In his time as chef at the Little Rose Tavern in West Park, John Hagerty turned the neighborhood bar into a destination for vegan food fans. What began as a weekly pop-up quickly progressed into becoming the bar’s principal food program. Dubbed the Green Kitchen at Little Rose, Hagerty’s plant-based menu redefined for a lot of diners what vegan foods can look and taste like.

This week was the chef’s last at Little Rose. After a little more than two years in residency, Hagerty has left the tavern in order to launch his own eatery. As soon as next week, Hagerty will open the Green Kitchen (3182 W. 25th St.) in Clark-Fulton, about a half-mile south of Porco Lounge. The move comes as that neighborhood is seeing historic residential development and vegan cooking is reaching its prime in Northeast Ohio.

“A lot of bars and venues weren’t really doing the vegan thing before, but they’re doing it now,” Hagerty explains. “The younger generation began eating more vegan food, better chefs started cooking it more and there’s better availability of ingredients.”

If you’ve enjoyed Hagerty’s cooking at Little Rose, the chef says you can look forward to plenty of crossover. The menu will be similar to the one he offered in West Park, but “freshened up,” with less bar food and more healthy options. The only commercial meat-substitute he uses is Impossible for the smash burgers – everything else is made in house.

To start there are crispy cauliflower wings, potato pierogies and tots loaded with chili, cashew cheese, smoky bits and crema. That popular double smash burger joins a cheesesteak and fried chicken-like sandwich. There are three wholesome salads and a few large plates, such as mac and cheese, Nashville hot chicken with cornbread and the "Parma Dinner," which includes pierogis, vegan sausage and caramelized onions. For dessert there’s a Faygo float and fried Oreos with peanut butter, banana and whipped cream.

The Green Kitchen resides in an attractive double storefront that recently was home to Grafe Café. Hagerty is putting his own touches on the space in advance of next week’s opening. His clientele will dictate which direction the café takes, he says. It could lean more fast-casual, with the bulk of the orders going out the front door, or dine-in, with guests enjoying their food onsite.

The Green Kitchen will serve lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.

November will be a busy month for the chef. He is also a chef-partner at the forthcoming Never Say Dive (4497 Broadview Rd.) in Old Brooklyn, where he will be heading up the food program.

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