The last thing Lee Road in Cleveland Heights needed was another restaurant. Within a short one-mile stretch, diners already have their pick from dozens of menus offering everything from lobster enchiladas to Turkish gyros. But that didn’t deter Joey’s Bistro from setting up shop in the old Jimmy O’Neill’s Tavern spot after getting booted from the Chagrin Falls space it called home for some 30 years.

But then we walked in and saw what the Leonetti family had done to the space. They took an odd, dark and chopped-up room and turned it into a quaint, airy bistro. The bar now wraps around to both sides of the restaurant, uniting the two formerly gloomy spaces. That dusty loft over the dining room was 86’d, raising the ceilings and elevating the mood. A glass garage-door façade – a first for the street – will create a breezy indoor-outdoor feel come warmer weather.

A quick scan of the menu revealed that the restaurant actually managed to plug a gap on the street by providing the kind of familiar, filling and affordable Italian American fare entire families can get behind. And the response from the neighborhood appears to be encouraging, with diners filling up tables most nights since the late fall opening.

“What a great addition to the street,” I said to the wife as we sat down for what was the first of two dinner visits.

But by the time we left after our second meal, all I could muster was, “Joey’s could have been a great addition to the street.”

From the flimsy silver to the poorly timed service to the unremarkable food, Joey’s Bistro feels like a restaurant that’s phoning it in – skating on a reputation that’s three decades in the making but likely two decades undeserved. If I never again see a puddle of canned tomato product, it will be entirely too soon. That chunky marinara arrives alongside the fried mozzarella, under the stuffed hot peppers, atop the chicken Parmesan, beneath the calamari, on top of the pasta… you name it, it’s red.

During our first visit, the appetizers barely hit the table when the soup and salad arrived. On the next visit, one appetizer showed up a full 10 minutes before the second. Getting water – including a refill of hot water for tea – proved more difficult here than in some developing countries. Longtime Joey’s fans will likely recall with fondness those gooey, buttery, garlic knots that have long been a table staple in Chagrin Falls. But apparently one needs to be a longtime fan to actually score a basket in Cleveland Heights as they are doled out only to a select few.

The calamari ($9) – which we ordered only because the kitchen was out of mussels – is decent, the usual mix of fried squid rings, tentacles and banana peppers. We enjoyed, too, three sausage-stuffed hot peppers ($8), topped with cheese and planted in red sauce, but lazy prepping left distasteful clumps of seeds and membranes behind. Hefty logs of fried mozzarella ($6) are appropriately crunchy outside and gooey within, paired with more of the same chunky marinara. The inaptly named Caesar salad ($7) contains no croutons, anchovies or even Caesar dressing – all the things that make a Caesar a Caesar. At Joey’s, diners can build their own pastas by mixing and matching noodles, sauces and meats. Avoid the meatballs, a $3.50 add-on that contains so much breading they appear white and smooth when bisected. The texture is predictably gummy, leaden and dry. Rather than a rich, smooth, meaty ragu, the Bolognese sauce ($10) is simply tomato sauce with a few bits of meat tossed in for good measure.

All is not lost, however, as a handful of entrees proved reason for optimism.

Joey’s has always offered a good, garlicky and cheesy white pizza ($8) – here called agli olio – and it lives up to the original. And at $14, the lasagna also is a wise choice, with layers of soft pasta arranged with meat and cheese. Both the chicken Parmesan ($12) and the chicken piccata ($14) are reliable renditions of the Italian American chestnuts, but the former would have benefited immensely from some seasoning in the breading. Both come with a side of pasta topped with, you guessed it, chunky marinara.

Joey’s likely will appeal to those with kids looking for a super-casual spot to grab a beer, a couple of pizzas, maybe a plate of pasta. But spend too much time contemplating the quality of the food and you might leave disappointed.

For 25 years, Douglas Trattner has worked as a full-time freelance writer, editor and author. His work as co-author on Michael Symon's cookbooks have earned him four New York Times Best-Selling Author honors, while his longstanding role as Scene dining editor has garnered awards of its own.

28 replies on “What Could Have Been: Joey’s Bistro in Cleveland Heights Rests on Reputation”

  1. Thanks for the honest review. I will definitely skip this place. I was really eager, too, and ready to dump some real cash.

  2. I would like to say that Joey’s Bistro in Cleveland Height is the most amazing restaurant and you would be really missing out not to try this restaurant. They have the most amazing food with the best top chef on this side of Cleveland. Cleveland Scene Magazine really needs to think about who they hire to do articles based on food, because they apparently do not know what good food is. The two brother’s Will and Micheal not only care and love each and every person that walks though their doors but they put the real Italian love into there food and drinks. So I hope everyone comes out and try’s this new amazing Resturant that two amazing men put their heart and soul into too to not only keep their family name alive but to do what they love and to remodel and make a place that puts the image into customers minds to feel like they are really in Italy!!! I truly am sorry about about one person writing an article to put down a family owned business, but always remember “never judge a book by its cover”. Come out and experience Joey’s Bistro, it truly is an amazing place and I can promise you, you won’t be let down!! Judge and see for yourself!!!

  3. I have not been to the Lee Rd. Joey’s but to the Joey’s on Miles Rd. Having eaten in many, many Italian restaurants and being a very good cook, I was disappointed with the Eggplant Parmesan. I can think of at least five ways it could have been improved. It wasn’t bad…but it wasn’t good. The garlic knots were delicious, service was good but some of the food needs some tweaking starting with the sauce. I know it’s easy to get into a rut when you’ve been in business for a long time. Even the most charming decor will not make up for so-so food.

  4. I have to say, I have been to Joeys bistro a number of times and I can’t say enough good things about it. Not only do they have the best chef possible, owner Michael Leonetti, they have one of the hardest workers I’ve ever met alongside him, William Leonetti, the other owner. These men put so much heart into this restaurant… I would hate to see such a negative article take away from all they’ve accomplished. The place is gorgeous and the food is incredible. I urge everyone to judge for themselves and see what the Leonetti brothers have brought the the area.

  5. I am sadly disappointed in this author’s review of Joey’s Bistro in Cleveland Heights. Not only are these two young men my son’s they are two of the most dedicated & hard working men I know. After suffering a from a fire in Chagrin Falls last year they have worked together to open a remarkable Bistro. Michael is a talented chef with a wonderful new menu. And William has put together a cordial front of the house staff. Everyone has graciously welcomed them into the area. Ever since I have frequented Joey’s Bistro all I have heard is rave reviews from new & old guests of Joey’s. Please visit their Cleveland Heights Bistro on Lee Road and see for yourself.

  6. Thanks for the honest review. I agree on just about every point. Went there with friends and most of our meals were “meh” and the service left a lot to be desired. I think the restaurant has great potential, and I would suggest the family members who are “sadly disappointed” in the review be “sadly disappointed” that someone had a disappointing dining experience and do something about it. I hope they listen to the constructive criticism and make some changes, otherwise they won’t last long in an area with so many options. (And they won’t last long if an Italian restaurant with better red sauce opens up, which is likely since they’ve shown there’s a willing market for it.)

  7. Leonettis… I don’t know you… But I live on Main Street in Chagrin Falls and sure knew your former restaurant. Reviews of it are still available online – and, sorry to say, they were similar to the Trattner one above. Your restaurant was a tired joke in Chagrin, to many of the locals, at least. Visitors – they didn’t know better. Being local, independent – putting “heart and soul” into the joint -and serving red sauce – do not a good restaurant make. You have to serve food that patrons consider good – flawlessly – and run the place well.. THAT is a good restaurant. It’s unfortunate you stubbornly don’t choose to listen to comments and make positive changes to overcome the negatives. This is offensive to customers… You want to stay in business, don’t you? (Why is your parking lot in Solon so empty… Is that restaurant still open or did word get out?)

    The current occupant of your old Chagrin space, Flip Side, is trendy, tasty and doing land office business… I suggest you listen to the comments/reviews above… Visit a place like Flip Side and see how successful, crowd-pleasing operators are doing it… And then come back to Chagrin (weren’t you supposed to be opening in the God-awful chalet eyesore on Orange Street last Fall???) and give it another go – with a 2014, not 1974, mentality… People want so much more from a restaurant these days…

    Also your “best top chef on this side of Cleveland” comment is fricking laughable.. I think Mr. Trattner – who has co-written cookbooks with “best top chef” Michael Symon – and who has spent years reviewing restaurants/writing about food – come up with a stack of better chefs “on this side of Cleveland…” Wouldn’t be hard…

    Wish you well – but your defiant comments should be embarrassing to you…

  8. Never been to the restaurant on Lee Road, but went to the old one in Chagrin Falls and then Joey’s in Solon. Mostly we found the food ok, nothing to special and you could get the same results at home. What really disappointed me though was the absolute terrible service we received in the Solon restaurant. You wait a long time for everything – from food to drinks. And the excuse is that they are so busy with take-out orders. THAT is just ridiculous. Do they really mean that they let in-house customers wait for an hour for a salad and produce the take-out food?

  9. I agree with chagrnfallsdefiance above – loved the garlic knots the couple of times I went to Joey’s here in Chagrin, but after that – everything was dripping in so much oil it was ridiculous. The one time I ordered a pizza, I had to ask for extra napkins to soak up all the oil swimming on top of it. I’ve been to good Italian restaurants. I’ve been to good Italian restaurants IN ITALY and let me tell you, Joey’s is NOT a good Italian restaurant. I’m sure the family that runs this restaurant is nice, as all their friends are attesting to here. But that doesn’t mean the reviewer was wrong.

    Perhaps Joey’s needs to PAY ATTENTION to all of their reviews and truly do something about it?

  10. This sounds like an episode of Kitchen Nightmares waiting to happen. A family in denial – refusing to acknowledge any possible restaurant problem.

  11. I must affirm BigRed EO and chagrinfallsdefiance. It was an unfortunate fact that the Chagrin Falls Joey’s was sub-par. Not that the family was not kind. They were nice. But again as it has been stated above, nice people do not equate a good restaurant experience. You need to up your game; times have changed and just mediocre isn’t cutting it any longer.

  12. I have actually been to the Joey’s on Lee. I think the reviewer nailed it. The bread was supposed to be luscious garlic knots but instead were practically croutons from re heating. The server was new and willing to admit it. he came to take our order and told us about the specials only after we asked if there were any. I ordered the veal parm. The veal was nicely prepared but the side of pasta – ugh. the lumpy chunky bland marinara.

    I was excited to have a reasonably priced Italian spot on Lee but this will not fit the bill. I won’t be going back.

  13. Don’t sweat the bad review. Unless your last name is Symon, Kuhn, Bruell or Sawyer…Tratner won’t like it. His self proclaimed pallet is a joke, and he has no restaurant experience. He gave our establishment a bad review six years ago and just we opened our third restaurant last year. Restaurant reviewers who have never owned, yet worked in a restaurant are the industries worst problem.

  14. Wow, the fact that the family chimed in to come to defense instead of accept the reviews and take what paying customers and critics have to say to heart. You tried to make this about you and your family.. thats not what paying customers care about. We want good food, good service and humble owners that can accept criticism.

    I was at the Chagrin location 2 times and that was plenty for me.. Im a foodie/ chef and I do not have patience for sub par food. I agree this sounds like an upcoming episode of Kitchen Nightmares. Avoid the show and take this review to heart and step up your game or your Lee rd. investment will have a short lifespan.

  15. A foodie/chef…..are you that chubby chef guy who is a self proclaimed chef but couldn’t cut it in the food industry (after bashing so many local restaurants). So now peddles internet services?

  16. Mr. Trattner, I find it so ironic I happened to stumble upon this review as I was just about to blog about my dining experience at Joey’s Bistro on Lee. So Mr. Trattner I’ll post it here as well! Seems we’ve had two entirely different experiences, how about we meet there and compare notes ?? T

    Joey’s Italian Bistro Bar-2195 Lee Rd Cleveland Heights.OH

    Let’s talk food, fun, spirits and atmosphere! Having been a long time fan of the original Joey’s in Chagrin Falls and a major food lover in the Cleveland area and abroad I was more than intrigued to discover that Joey’s was opening up a new location in Heights area. Adding an upscale twist to both the menu and charisma of the original. It was a definite must try in my mind! So I gathered up a couple friends headed out to the Heights. When the door swung open we were immediately greeted by two smiling faces, the hostess, and that of co-owner William Leonetti. The place was buzzing with dinner chatter and the style and lighting made us immediately feel comfortable and eagerly scored the last three remaining seats at the bar. We were immediately met by not one but two bartenders who promptly served up our cocktails. Moments later menus were placed before us and the agony of deciding what to order was upon us. Before ordering a steaming basket of garlic and buttered bread rolls were set before us and were devoured before we could even decide on our main dish. I opted for the Eggplant Napoleon, the other two chose an order of baked meatballs and a salad. The prices were hard to beat at the meatballs coming in at $8.00 while my eggplant at $10.00.. They arrived simultaneously by the time we had finished our first glass of wine. To my surprise the eggplant listed as an appetizer as were the meatballs were indescribably a meal within themselves. The eggplant was more like a sculpture when it arrived out of the kitchen a towering stack of perfectly cooked eggplant, layered subtly with cheese, sautéed spinach and a light layer of sauce. A balsamic drizzle and freshly grated cheese surrounded the edge of my plate and proved to be a most delicious addition to the traditional eggplant parm we all know and love.. This was like an eggplant parm of the future and much, much better. I couldn’t resist tasting the two giant meatballs sitting on the plate next to me.. They were large enough to serve two people. These were not your typical meatballs, they had a distinct taste and curiously left you wanting another bite, (and then another). The blend of meats and spices were absolutely delicious and left this Italian girl saying to myself ” these are not my mama’s meatballs” something most Italians girls would not say aloud, ever! Upon finishing up our meals and ordering just one more glass of wine, we were greeted by head Chef and co-owner Michael Leonetti who took time out of the kitchen to personally greet us and ask how our meals were. I believe the only words that chimed from our mouths were ” delicious, amazing and fantastic”. The Leonetti brothers of Joey’s continue the tradition of making their patrons feel like family by personally greeting their guest from door to table! A tradition sadly lost in many establishments today. We are definitely looking forward to many return visits to Joey’s Italian Bistro and making our way through the menu line by line. If you are looking for one of the best affordable Italian meals, upbeat atmosphere for dinner or for drinks and a appetizer or two look no further than Joey’s Italian Bistro Bar-2195 LEE RD CLEVELAND HTS.

  17. “realtruth,” are you referring to the great review he just gave to Peachtree? I’ve read tons of good reviews from him that aren’t from the people you mentioned. Also, you actually don’t have to have impeccable food to be successful. There are a lot of places with bad food that are popular. Applebee’s, many bars, etc.

  18. Julie – That review sounds like it is from someone who doesn’t know how to write reviews/criticize something, or from a shill.

  19. @brianwilson: I appreciate your feedback on my review. To clarify, while I am more than capable of writing a critical review and have done so in the past, there is a professional difference between being critical of an establishment or even a specific dish versus publicly slandering the establishment as a whole. In this particular instance and in my experience I found nothing critical worth mentioning other than I was unable to finish my entire meal due to the large portions. To call me a shill, is slightly offensive and also way off target!

  20. Julie – Well if you can’t find even a tiny thing critical, it is alarming but possible I guess. But the way it is written sounds like an advertisement on their own website or something.

    “If you are looking for one of the best affordable Italian meals, upbeat atmosphere for dinner or for drinks and a appetizer or two look no further than Joey’s Italian Bistro Bar-“

    That is not a review, that is an advertisement. To me, it does not sound professional. But it is a blog so I guess it’s not professional anyway, so carry on!

  21. @brianwilson Again, your feedback is greatly appreciated in regards to my writing capabilities and professionalism however, we are not discussing a review on “me” which you are so blatantly intrigued by! This was a review on a restaruant and the food within based on personal experience .. Perhaps my “advertisement” as you pointed out is just a reflection of how good it really is!! Who doesn’t want free advertisement these days?

  22. Most prospective customers will never see this review or any of the biased supporters. Mom, I know how you must feel, but just encourage your sons to take what they can from these views, up the ante, and earn their business every day. I have great respect for people who devote themselves to this industry, and I would not let a bad review ruin my day. Trattner knows what he’s writing about, and I think you’ll do well by fixing what he pointed out. Can’t be all that difficult! Good luck!

  23. I just came home from dinner at Joey’s Bistro on Lee in Cleveland Heights and was very disappointed. I agree with Douglas Trattner about everything, It truly could have been a great addition to the street. They did a great job updating the interior and the menu looked great. The service was fast even with our new waiter. But I did not know there were any specials, we were not finished with our salads when our entrees arrived and they needed to clear our dishes away. I just didn’t finish my salad. My meal was pretty good. I had the Pasta Puttanesca which was flavorful with peppers and sausage if a bit oily. My three companions did not fare as well. A simple pasta with sauce and meatball proved bland. The eggplant parmesan was ordinary and a pizza was bland as well. I also ordered two of the Italian burgers as take out. Now I know, who would get a burger at an Italian restaurant but my 90 year old parents were craving burgers. But the focaccia they were served on ended up hard and slightly charred, the fries..well they were limp, oily Cajun fries…um in an Italian restaurant. I had a very hard time hearing those I dined with as the noise level was so high due to those new high ceilings. I will not be going back I am sorry to say but luckily there are lots of good choices for me on Lee in Cleveland Heights

  24. sad to say that i agree with most of the criticism here. this joint is all over the place with overpriced italian just 3 miles from little italy, poorly trained staff, over-the-top italian stereotype decor, and just generally amateur stuff. it’s like a theme-park version of an italian restaurant, or a tv sitcom.

    maybe this sort of thing will fly way out with people who don’t really know or live with italians, but on the east side of cleveland you have to come with something a lot better than this.

    i was at joey’s in chagrin falls a few times back in the day and this place is nothing like that. i’m not really sure what joey’s on lee is trying to be, but dropping $50 for dinner for 2 there is a painful experience, especially with so many great restaurants nearby.

  25. We have tried Joey’s on Lee Rd. once so far. Much like Trattner, we weren’t wowed, but we will probably give it another shot. Our appetizer (arancini) supposedly had bacon and blue cheese but all we could taste was the fried breading. The garlic rolls were very hard and had burnt spots (possibly reheated?) Having never eaten at the original Joey’s, I had no idea what they were supposed to be like until I read this article and the comments! On a positive note, the servings were huge – our entire family of 5 had enough for lunch the next day. Next time I will have our kids split a kids’ meal… it was a very generous bowl of pasta. My chicken parmesan was also very good. There is so much potential here… We’ll give it one more try and it will either be a favorite or we’ll cut our losses and move on.

  26. It’s a good thing they have a big (corrupt and dirty) family. Otherwise there’d be no positive reviews. This place is gross.

  27. As a former employee in Chagrin, they charged you for food each shift, whether you ate or not. They also charged employees a fee for the aprons we used. This is the most scandalous policy I’ve ever encountered in 15 years of restaurant management. I was not a manager there and just wanted to get a foot in the door to see if there was opportunity to advance in a family owned restaurant. I prefer family owned to corporate.

    The lack of teamwork was astonishing. I would be the only one working while 10 or so employees gathered in the kitchen to socialize. Between the dysfunction, and check robbery, I walked out one night midshift. Glad I did. They mailed my last two checks to me. I deposited them, but they had placed stop payments on the checks. The amounts were so insignificant that I did not even care. I don’t like to wish ill on others, but I’m glad they are closed and nobody else is subject to their crooked ways.

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