Not since Symon and Herschman ran dueling bistros across the street from one another has this end of Professor been so lively. Press is a "wine bar" in name alone as the breadth and quality of the food here bares little in common with what typically passes as grub at others in the genre. Prosciutto-wrapped monkfish, deftly grilled steak, and a tasty crab cake sandwich prove the range of the chef's talents. At eight selections, the wine-on-tap list is one of the longest in town.